Meall Nan Tarmachan

Meall Nan Tarmachan,

A gingery hill,

with sunrise just dancing,

I came for my fill.

Up steps of stone,

with delicate flower,

mist hangs atop,

a cooling wee shower.

Blustery winds,

guide me back down,

to patches of corduroy,

in which my eyes drown.

Glorious spectrum

a palette so bold,

this wandering up hills,

may it never grow old.

What a fantastic day it has been, and it all started with a quiet sneak out of the house (husband on very late late shift) I was on the road for just after 6 a.m. with the usual nervous energy that sits in my stomach, when I’m off to do a big walk. I’m weighing up if I can do this, if I’m capable, worrying about getting lost, injuring myself or making a fool of myself as I try to climb another Munro! I’m on number six and number five Ben Vane (read my blog three men and a mountain!!) had left its mark and so I felt the need to try something different to re-establish the fact that I can independently do this. I quite enjoy walking on my own, I can take my own pace, stop to take lots of photographs and not feel like I’m keeping anyone back. I was heading to the Ben Lawers car park about 40 minutes from home, but I was not tackling Ben Lawers today, I was heading up the other side and trying out Meall Nan Tarmachan (rounded hill of the ptarmigan). Reading about this hill on Walk Highland, I was aware it could be done in a loop if you traverse the ridge; this struck a little bit of fear in me, but I was just going to see how I got on and how the weather turned out!

I arrived in the car park just to see the sunrise kissing the far-flung hills and it was beautiful, the path was easy to find and a once gathered I set off up the heathery hill. It was quiet and calm and at this point I couldn’t see anyone else on the hill. I could see the expanse of Loch Tay growing as I wended my way up the hill and the Ben Lawers dam featured in the smaller Lochan Na Lairige. It was stunning looking back over Ben Lawers and Ben Ghlas and the loch, and as the sunrise dissipated, the clouds changed to a smoky grey colour. The path was good and straightforward with some large stones acting as steps; beautiful delicate flowers grew out of some of them defying the elements and showing that strength is not about size! The green of the hills popped and the tree plantations laid on the slopes like aligned corduroy patches. I was surprised how good I was finding the going, don’t get me wrong I was still very steady and out of breath, but nothing like the last hill. This is a gentler hill and I felt welcomed and supported by its heathery slopes, I heard the occasional grouse warble to a mate, and little birds flew out of the shrubbery skimming the grasses with outstretched wings. It was pretty special! Views behind me were spectacular, ahead of me all I good see was the mist and fog blowing in, the higher I got the denser and damper it became. I had another solo walker overtake me and I overtook another who was taking a bit of respite with her four-legged friend. As I got closer the visibility became poorer, I knew I was getting close but couldn’t see a thing apart from the path directly in front of me. I consulted my map at a fork and headed to the left, and sure enough the cairn became visible along with the walker that had passed me. The wind was so strong, we couldn’t hear each other congratulating each other and I was not stopping here for my cuppa, it would have gone sideways. I really wanted to do the ridge and could see the path disappearing off into the unknown, but it was unknown and windy and foggy so I decided against it and set off back the way I came, I just needed out of the wind for a while. Once I got around the corner it was calmer and I stood for a short time admiring the view that was now coming back into focus below me. The other walker then caught me up, I now know her name to be Sarah, she kindly took my photo with the panorama behind me and then we set off back down the mountain with a very easy and relaxed chatter between us.

It did not take long to reach the foot of the hill and we passed many walkers heading up, the day was heating up and I was very glad we had set off early to avoid the rising temperatures. Sarah spoke to me about a Facebook group she was a member of that was all women and how supportive and encouraging it is, so that’s one I will be looking up when I got home. The entire walk was just over 8.5km and I was up and down in just under 3 hours, I was pretty astounded……and pretty sweaty; now to find a swimming spot! Sarah and I said our goodbyes, but I’m pretty sure we will be seeing each other again.

Obviously Loch Tay was the nearest Loch, but I have swum in Loch Tay a few times and so I set out in search of another; Loch Lubhair, its one I have passed a few times but never stopped to swim, today was the day.

After a short drive I pulled up in the car park by Loch Lubhair and grabbed my stuff and headed down to the Lochside. It was a bit busy with people camping but I really needed a cool off….they were concerned I would be too cold, erm nope I love it. But actually, it was reassuring having someone there when this is a new Loch to me. The entry was a real mix of reeds, rocks and squidge, I can do rocks, and reeds (just about), but squidge is unpleasant, so I pushed off and got in the water very quickly. It was bliss, the water was soothing, felt moderately mild and refreshing. It felt like I was swimming in a very wide, slow-moving river as there was a little current, but the other side of the loch was within spitting distance. I turned back to see how far I had swum and was blown away but the view behind me; Ben More, capped with clouds that briefly parted to reveal its splendour. It was amazing, maybe a sign that it should be my next Munro! The views from the loch were just awesome and it was very humbling to be in the water looking all around at these majestic and inspiring hills.

All in all, a fabulous day, bagged Munro number 6, met another lovely lady who I think I will definitely see again on some hill, finished off by a swim in a new loch! My Saturday is complete.